There is a place where seals and penguins are common things. Where snow storms happen in the summer and glare from the ground burns the whites of your eyes. Butt cheeks get dry skin, and I'm there.
I'm at a place where thin beards and hairy pits are commitments. A place where overalls make you desirable and hiking boots are considered attractive. Where inhibitions drop with time regardless of how sober or perpetually drunk you are. It's a low standard paradise, and I'm there.
It's a place where people can get there cabin fever on. Where producing Freezing Man for Thanksgiving or MAAG for Christmas brings out the need to ride the giant seesaw or run on the human gerbil wheel. Where Under the Bed Gallery is really a mini art gallery under someones bed and Ice Stock brings in the New Year. A place where a round of whiskey slaps turns into an all bar slap/punch fest and no one hits out of anger, and I'm there.
This is a place that 34 degrees makes you sweat. A place that talking about the smell of moss causes folks to salivate. A place that produces enough free time having a drawn out conversation about the logistics of making a child that is 75% genetically yours doesn't seem ludicrous, but worth while.
This is a place where spending all day working with someone and eating every meal together still leaves you making plans with them for that night. A place where no matter how annoying or abrasive someone seems, you learn to love them because there are NO other options. It's a place that has equality the communists would be jealous of and the lack of materialism needed to take down Wal-Mart. Hippies would seem high maintenance, and I'm there.
Talking about a favorite bar in Beijing isn't one upping the other guy, because they've been there too. Bouncing off ideas of Siberia or Malaysia next isn't chatter, because they're thinking of going too. It's the realization that crazy is normal and "real life" is here and they all feel it too. It's a rolling stone's paradise, and I'm there.
Hope you all had a great holiday season and enjoy the new year!
Chris
Friday, December 30, 2011
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Happy Camper
WAIS and Byrd are two field camps out in the middle of nowhere where about thirty people stay and support science ventures like taking and studying ice core samples. The camps are a handful of semi-permanent buildings and a cluster of tents that house the people there. The closest populated station to these two (other than each other) is the space station when it passes by. Given that if someone is sent here they face two weeks to a month of rough, hazardous conditions, peeing in bottles, working longer hours, living outdoors in much colder weather, facing large elevation changes, and being limited to a two minute shower once a week, it's obvious that we all have been fighting for a chance to go.
My boss took me aside last week and began apologizing for pulling me around so much on changing back and forth from days to nights and thanked me for being so flexible. I figured she meant to tell me I was going back to nights, but instead informed me they are sending me to field camp.
Although working a field camp is non-stop shoveling snow, washing dishes with melt water, and trying to sleep out in the elements, it's one of those perks that pops up and makes you enjoy mopping, scrubbing, and cleaning just to get the chance to go. None of us came to Antarctica for the luxuries and cushiness. The chance to go to snow school, or Happy Camper, has been incentive enough for some of us to be on our game to a competitive level, much less be sent out. Only eight to twelve of the thirty some people I work with get to go so I am totally stoked.
Happy camper was this past weekend. The instructions for the course are "Pack all of your ECW (extreme cold weather) gear and meet in the science building for two days of snow school." Other than that all I had to go off of was the advice thrown to me by the seasoned kitchen staff, "Sleep in the trench, but be sure to bring a pillow, scrape it as flat as possible, and make your roof high enough to not get claustrophobic..." What am I getting into?
The 22 people that made up the class included the two guides, one of my buddies I flew down here with, a woman from Brazil here to study penguins and draw their blood, a handful of PHD and Masters students, as well as the one other person from the galley going with me, the former swimsuit competition winner for Miss Texas. The people you meet when traveling...
We spent the first half of the day studying hypothermia, frost bite, heat loss, and a hand full of other survival situations people raised in Florida have never thought about. We then lugged our ECW bags, food boxes, and extra gear into our vans and were driven outside of town to the snow pack on the ice shelf. The shelf itself is giant and the expanse of nothingness is like sailing on the ocean on a VERY still day. With hundreds of meters of snow and ice, it's a perfect setting for learning survival practices while still being close enough to base to be saved if things were to really hit the fan.
The first thing learned was where the latrine (a deep hole carved into the ice about a hundred feet down) stood and to be sure to lock the door to keep the door from blowing off the hinges. Then we went over stove operation, what to expect in a survival bag if need be, and what to expect for that night. We all picked up a sleep kit and hiked our way out to the happy camper sight. We spent the day learning how to set up Scott and mountain tents under severe weather conditions, cut ice blocks out of the snow pack, build a snow wall as a wind breaker, use the quarry from the block cutting area as a makeshift kitchen, and finally how to dig a trench into the snow as a means of shelter. At the end of the day none of the projects started had been completed and no trenches had been dug. The instructors assigned the Texan and myself as the camp managers and left for warm indoor shelter as the class was left to our own devices to figure out completing the wall, getting the kitchen set up, boiling snow for water, and lastly digging out our trenches. In no way shape or form were we going to let each other bitch out and sleep in a tent. If you're going to be bad ass, go all the way.
To dig a trench (if you are ever in the situation where you need one) dig down in the snow until you're just over waist deep. Be sure to lay down in it so the length is long enough where you don't touch with your head or feet. Dig out the sides at the base to combat claustrophobia while still leaving the opening narrow enough to form a roof. Flatten the area as much as possible. For the roof either use the sled that was full of saws, shovels, and tents, turned bottom up over your opening and then fill the edges with snow chunks, or cut out thinner, less heavy blocks from the kitchen/quarry and lay them across or against each other on to of the opening. Bedding should include two mats as insulation, a fleece sleeping bag for the inside, and a -40 degree sleeping bag for the outside layer. Crawl into bed with long underwear, head wear, and dry wool socks on and place any wet clothing against your skin to dry. Plug the opening with your ECW bag and anything else you can think of. Once inside, after all this hassle, you'll automatically have to pee. Use the pee bottle then close it tight and shove it in you sleeping bag as extra warmth.
It was the first time I've been surrounded by blue ice in my life. With the sun over us the whole time I figured it would be hard to sleep. Just as I was going to bed in my ice coffin the snow was coming down hard enough to hide the volcano looming over us, much less McMurdo in the far distance. It created a total silence and the light pitter patter of snow hitting the sled over made me pass out right away. I woke at some point in the middle of the night and heard NOTHING. Without a watch and movement of the sun, the only way to tell how much time had gone by was the icicles that had formed from water vapor dripping down the sled above me and how much ice had formed inside my water bottle. I lied there for a while and enjoyed the sensory deprivation. It was the first time since I've been here that I've been able to be alone and quiet in a comfortable position. I woke to footsteps above. I popped my head out of my hole and was met by hard wind, a tent flying away from a camper, and dark clouds overhead. I apparently slept nine hours straight, minus the alone time. The pants and gloves I had tried drying with my body had turned to solid clumps of frozen fabric. Thank God for extras. We ate breakfast in the kitchen (complete with snow L shaped benches and large coffee table) and broke down our camp ready for pickup.
The second day we were brought back to the Happy Camper building and run through drills to see how much information we could access while in an emergency. Then we got to pull out the HM radio in the survival bag that is modelled after the trench radios used in the world wars and attempt to contact the south pole station. The final task before dragging our bags back to the road for pickup was the drill of wearing buckets on our heads to simulate severe conditions and try to find our missing person. We were maybe three minutes away from finding her, but time ran out.
On our return to town we were instructed on helicopter safety before being allowed to get back for a shower and food. It's amazing how much chocolate they fed us. The amount of calories allotted for keeping warm is pretty staggering. After a shower and quick nap I devoured a huge plate of food then bartended for 7 hours. I was lucky in that the Mad Max themed dance party was that Saturday in a different building and we had a relatively relaxed night.
More Later,
Chris
My boss took me aside last week and began apologizing for pulling me around so much on changing back and forth from days to nights and thanked me for being so flexible. I figured she meant to tell me I was going back to nights, but instead informed me they are sending me to field camp.
Although working a field camp is non-stop shoveling snow, washing dishes with melt water, and trying to sleep out in the elements, it's one of those perks that pops up and makes you enjoy mopping, scrubbing, and cleaning just to get the chance to go. None of us came to Antarctica for the luxuries and cushiness. The chance to go to snow school, or Happy Camper, has been incentive enough for some of us to be on our game to a competitive level, much less be sent out. Only eight to twelve of the thirty some people I work with get to go so I am totally stoked.
Happy camper was this past weekend. The instructions for the course are "Pack all of your ECW (extreme cold weather) gear and meet in the science building for two days of snow school." Other than that all I had to go off of was the advice thrown to me by the seasoned kitchen staff, "Sleep in the trench, but be sure to bring a pillow, scrape it as flat as possible, and make your roof high enough to not get claustrophobic..." What am I getting into?
The 22 people that made up the class included the two guides, one of my buddies I flew down here with, a woman from Brazil here to study penguins and draw their blood, a handful of PHD and Masters students, as well as the one other person from the galley going with me, the former swimsuit competition winner for Miss Texas. The people you meet when traveling...
We spent the first half of the day studying hypothermia, frost bite, heat loss, and a hand full of other survival situations people raised in Florida have never thought about. We then lugged our ECW bags, food boxes, and extra gear into our vans and were driven outside of town to the snow pack on the ice shelf. The shelf itself is giant and the expanse of nothingness is like sailing on the ocean on a VERY still day. With hundreds of meters of snow and ice, it's a perfect setting for learning survival practices while still being close enough to base to be saved if things were to really hit the fan.
The first thing learned was where the latrine (a deep hole carved into the ice about a hundred feet down) stood and to be sure to lock the door to keep the door from blowing off the hinges. Then we went over stove operation, what to expect in a survival bag if need be, and what to expect for that night. We all picked up a sleep kit and hiked our way out to the happy camper sight. We spent the day learning how to set up Scott and mountain tents under severe weather conditions, cut ice blocks out of the snow pack, build a snow wall as a wind breaker, use the quarry from the block cutting area as a makeshift kitchen, and finally how to dig a trench into the snow as a means of shelter. At the end of the day none of the projects started had been completed and no trenches had been dug. The instructors assigned the Texan and myself as the camp managers and left for warm indoor shelter as the class was left to our own devices to figure out completing the wall, getting the kitchen set up, boiling snow for water, and lastly digging out our trenches. In no way shape or form were we going to let each other bitch out and sleep in a tent. If you're going to be bad ass, go all the way.
To dig a trench (if you are ever in the situation where you need one) dig down in the snow until you're just over waist deep. Be sure to lay down in it so the length is long enough where you don't touch with your head or feet. Dig out the sides at the base to combat claustrophobia while still leaving the opening narrow enough to form a roof. Flatten the area as much as possible. For the roof either use the sled that was full of saws, shovels, and tents, turned bottom up over your opening and then fill the edges with snow chunks, or cut out thinner, less heavy blocks from the kitchen/quarry and lay them across or against each other on to of the opening. Bedding should include two mats as insulation, a fleece sleeping bag for the inside, and a -40 degree sleeping bag for the outside layer. Crawl into bed with long underwear, head wear, and dry wool socks on and place any wet clothing against your skin to dry. Plug the opening with your ECW bag and anything else you can think of. Once inside, after all this hassle, you'll automatically have to pee. Use the pee bottle then close it tight and shove it in you sleeping bag as extra warmth.
It was the first time I've been surrounded by blue ice in my life. With the sun over us the whole time I figured it would be hard to sleep. Just as I was going to bed in my ice coffin the snow was coming down hard enough to hide the volcano looming over us, much less McMurdo in the far distance. It created a total silence and the light pitter patter of snow hitting the sled over made me pass out right away. I woke at some point in the middle of the night and heard NOTHING. Without a watch and movement of the sun, the only way to tell how much time had gone by was the icicles that had formed from water vapor dripping down the sled above me and how much ice had formed inside my water bottle. I lied there for a while and enjoyed the sensory deprivation. It was the first time since I've been here that I've been able to be alone and quiet in a comfortable position. I woke to footsteps above. I popped my head out of my hole and was met by hard wind, a tent flying away from a camper, and dark clouds overhead. I apparently slept nine hours straight, minus the alone time. The pants and gloves I had tried drying with my body had turned to solid clumps of frozen fabric. Thank God for extras. We ate breakfast in the kitchen (complete with snow L shaped benches and large coffee table) and broke down our camp ready for pickup.
The second day we were brought back to the Happy Camper building and run through drills to see how much information we could access while in an emergency. Then we got to pull out the HM radio in the survival bag that is modelled after the trench radios used in the world wars and attempt to contact the south pole station. The final task before dragging our bags back to the road for pickup was the drill of wearing buckets on our heads to simulate severe conditions and try to find our missing person. We were maybe three minutes away from finding her, but time ran out.
On our return to town we were instructed on helicopter safety before being allowed to get back for a shower and food. It's amazing how much chocolate they fed us. The amount of calories allotted for keeping warm is pretty staggering. After a shower and quick nap I devoured a huge plate of food then bartended for 7 hours. I was lucky in that the Mad Max themed dance party was that Saturday in a different building and we had a relatively relaxed night.
More Later,
Chris
Sunday, December 4, 2011
Holidays
I figured being down here would throw a wrench in the feelings of joy and excitement I get around the holidays. Not only is it becoming summer and McMudhole is creeping out of the snow melt, but being without people who've known you for over two months kinda puts the breaks on the vibe.
Thanksgiving turned out to be one of the easiest days I've worked here. We had adopt a DA going on, so for an extra hour we had someone come in and replace us from the community. We also had a full hour to eat dinner which was a challenge as the urge to eat everything clashed with our habit of chowing down dinner as fast as possible. The icing on the cake was the standing ovation the kitchen staff got after the first of three Thanksgiving meals was served. If I could have every person I served in a day stand up at the end and applaud for me I think it would make the crappiest of situations better. I recommend this to anyone. I don't recommend trying for a nap when drunk people are waiting for their turn to eat in the hallways outside your door. Just make sure if you do you don't have any sharp objects, or heavy things to throw at them when they don't understand your frustration when you ask them to be quiet.
I am finding myself thankful for the small things. And here they are:
Till later
Chris
Thanksgiving turned out to be one of the easiest days I've worked here. We had adopt a DA going on, so for an extra hour we had someone come in and replace us from the community. We also had a full hour to eat dinner which was a challenge as the urge to eat everything clashed with our habit of chowing down dinner as fast as possible. The icing on the cake was the standing ovation the kitchen staff got after the first of three Thanksgiving meals was served. If I could have every person I served in a day stand up at the end and applaud for me I think it would make the crappiest of situations better. I recommend this to anyone. I don't recommend trying for a nap when drunk people are waiting for their turn to eat in the hallways outside your door. Just make sure if you do you don't have any sharp objects, or heavy things to throw at them when they don't understand your frustration when you ask them to be quiet.
I am finding myself thankful for the small things. And here they are:
- Insects, Butt Face Bumble who came in the honey, and the fruit fly I bonded with who showed up in the salad. You guys remind me that every time a bug dies here a species becomes extinct on the continent. Thanks for sharing your last days with us.
- Freshies, aside from bringing said insect buddies, they are the only source of fresh food we have. Sucks that a two day storm kept them from arriving for Thanksgiving dinner, but it made life easier for all involved to just open that can of fruit cocktail from the 90's and call it a holiday.
- Knowing your neighbors, in the sense that the question "Where are you from?" is no longer asked because there is no straight answer down here and no one has the time to explain the last five years of traveling that got them to this point anyway.
- Living on the edge, where naked is socks and a base layer. You always feel like a deviant when you walk down the hall from the shower in your shorts. Exhilarating.
Till later
Chris
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Dear Pam:
I hope Seattle is treating you nicely. The weather this time of year tends to suck so I hope you're staying warm. Down here it has hit t-shirt weather! Today is a high of 28 and the snow has started to melt. Huge difference from two weeks ago when we weren't allowed outside because of poor visibility. The wind sheer was at -48 and I didn't step out for three days. So much better now that the freezers are colder than the outside again.
Work is going well. They just pulled me off of a two week stint as a Midrat where I was learning to make lunches for people at the field camps as well as the military pilots flying cargo from McMurdo to the South Pole base. Much harder than I thought to fit 2,000 calories into a paper sack.
The two weeks working nights made it easier to tend bar at 6am. Southern Exposure is my favorite as it is the diviest. Pool table, shuffle board table, foosball, and signs that say "Derelict Junction" and "Metaphysical Pole." Add a dart board and low lighting and you get the picture. It's here that the raucous crowd goes to hit up any of the five whiskeys we have down here and play "whiskey slaps". Basically you stand around in a group and take a shot, then everyone else slaps you across the face. After the first round you can't tell who's flush from the drinking and who just has had the crap smacked out of em. Cabin fever I guess.
The second bar is Gallaghars and is bigger. This is the place live music, burger bar, karaoke, bingo night, dance parties, and any other social functions take place. It also has free arcade games and air hockey. My Ms. Packman skills are improving.
After 10-12 hour work days most people here like to relax a little. There is the coffee bar that houses the wine list. Mostly American wines, but as Scott base (the Kiwi's) is only a mile away I go and get better stuff there. If they aren't lounging in the library or drinking in the bars, there is usually a house party going down somewhere. I can now say I have enjoyed a game of beer pong in the place presidents, kings, and prime ministers stay. It was a little weird at first thinking of the kind of people who have stayed in Hut 10, but I ended up laughing to myself thinking of Obama trying to separate his plastics into the ten different bins for recycling.
As far as the task list you guys sent me:
1. 1000 year old Ice with 5 year whiskey
- If 12 year old Glenlivet Scotch and 1000 year old ice run through a purification system then refrozen counts then that's one down.
2. Schnappsickels
- If they had schnapps here I could make this happen, but alas....
3. Antarctic Electric Slide
- I am still singing along and dancing behind the bar. "Boot Scoot and Boogie" is a favorite at Southern. I will need to see how I can bring out line dancing to the ice.... more on that one later.
4. Learn ice sculpting
- If I get to go to "Happy Camper" training then yes, I will learn how to fashion a sleeping area, wind block, and table area out of ice. I don't think, unfortunately, they teach how to make swans.
More on your list for me at a later date.
In terms of penguin recipes, they'll start to show up in a few weeks to moult. I don't think I can legally catch and eat one, but there's always the mummified penguin in the hut. They pulled out the Ob Tube this week since the ice is getting thin. This also means there are more holes opening up that the seals are popping out of. On my break I like to go out and watch them lay there and twitch. Much less exciting then you'd think a live seal would be, but they are the top land predators here, so there's that. Kind of like a giant tire and a basset hound combined, only smoother.
It's these breaks that make life here worth it. I took a nine mile hike out to a place called Castle Rock. It's surrounded by nothing but glaciers as far as the eye can see and it was the first time I got to get away from the base. At 4am it is a trip to think about hiking through the wilderness like that, but seeing as the sun hasn't set in a month, who's to say what night and day are anyway? Otherwise I am stuck in the kitchen, scrubbing pots and having chicken juices spilled on me and thinking "This is my life.... I chose this." Without the reminders that there are wild seals just off the front porch, I'd be a lot less happy.
Once again, I hope you're doing well in Seattle. Please tell everyone hello for me!
Chris
Work is going well. They just pulled me off of a two week stint as a Midrat where I was learning to make lunches for people at the field camps as well as the military pilots flying cargo from McMurdo to the South Pole base. Much harder than I thought to fit 2,000 calories into a paper sack.
The two weeks working nights made it easier to tend bar at 6am. Southern Exposure is my favorite as it is the diviest. Pool table, shuffle board table, foosball, and signs that say "Derelict Junction" and "Metaphysical Pole." Add a dart board and low lighting and you get the picture. It's here that the raucous crowd goes to hit up any of the five whiskeys we have down here and play "whiskey slaps". Basically you stand around in a group and take a shot, then everyone else slaps you across the face. After the first round you can't tell who's flush from the drinking and who just has had the crap smacked out of em. Cabin fever I guess.
The second bar is Gallaghars and is bigger. This is the place live music, burger bar, karaoke, bingo night, dance parties, and any other social functions take place. It also has free arcade games and air hockey. My Ms. Packman skills are improving.
After 10-12 hour work days most people here like to relax a little. There is the coffee bar that houses the wine list. Mostly American wines, but as Scott base (the Kiwi's) is only a mile away I go and get better stuff there. If they aren't lounging in the library or drinking in the bars, there is usually a house party going down somewhere. I can now say I have enjoyed a game of beer pong in the place presidents, kings, and prime ministers stay. It was a little weird at first thinking of the kind of people who have stayed in Hut 10, but I ended up laughing to myself thinking of Obama trying to separate his plastics into the ten different bins for recycling.
As far as the task list you guys sent me:
1. 1000 year old Ice with 5 year whiskey
- If 12 year old Glenlivet Scotch and 1000 year old ice run through a purification system then refrozen counts then that's one down.
2. Schnappsickels
- If they had schnapps here I could make this happen, but alas....
3. Antarctic Electric Slide
- I am still singing along and dancing behind the bar. "Boot Scoot and Boogie" is a favorite at Southern. I will need to see how I can bring out line dancing to the ice.... more on that one later.
4. Learn ice sculpting
- If I get to go to "Happy Camper" training then yes, I will learn how to fashion a sleeping area, wind block, and table area out of ice. I don't think, unfortunately, they teach how to make swans.
More on your list for me at a later date.
In terms of penguin recipes, they'll start to show up in a few weeks to moult. I don't think I can legally catch and eat one, but there's always the mummified penguin in the hut. They pulled out the Ob Tube this week since the ice is getting thin. This also means there are more holes opening up that the seals are popping out of. On my break I like to go out and watch them lay there and twitch. Much less exciting then you'd think a live seal would be, but they are the top land predators here, so there's that. Kind of like a giant tire and a basset hound combined, only smoother.
It's these breaks that make life here worth it. I took a nine mile hike out to a place called Castle Rock. It's surrounded by nothing but glaciers as far as the eye can see and it was the first time I got to get away from the base. At 4am it is a trip to think about hiking through the wilderness like that, but seeing as the sun hasn't set in a month, who's to say what night and day are anyway? Otherwise I am stuck in the kitchen, scrubbing pots and having chicken juices spilled on me and thinking "This is my life.... I chose this." Without the reminders that there are wild seals just off the front porch, I'd be a lot less happy.
Once again, I hope you're doing well in Seattle. Please tell everyone hello for me!
Chris
Thursday, November 10, 2011
Time Warp!
One of my favorite things about living here has been the sudden change in technologies and color schemes. Basically the only stuff that is here are things that people have brought with them and left. It's great to rock out back in the 1900's in many different ways.
1900 - 1920 There is a hut that stands maybe 1/5 a mile away from McMurdo. It is where Shackleton and Scott set up a shelter that was made for the desert of Australia. Obviously, heating a building made to keep cool became a nightmare and they used it as their supply hut. The hut was eventually used as a shelter due to multiple failed attempts at reaching the South Pole and the isolation of winter. While the majority of the people went crazy and died, some survivors stayed for almost half a year eating seals and burning blubber to stay warm. The hut was eventually closed up and left to be found by people building McMurdo in the 50's. It is now a perfectly preserved building.
When I got to go in and see what it was like, it really tripped me out. The majority of the things in the room have been unmoved and are exactly as they were left. The outside of the building has a pile of burlap with a mummified seal carcass on top. When you step inside, you're met by not only more visual carnage, but the smell. To the right of the door is a small room that houses two sheep and part of an emperor penguin on meat hooks. Directly in front of the entrance is a stack of hay used to feed the horses and sheep brought by the explorers to help sustain them. When you enter the large open space of the hut the smell of burnt fat, hay, and dirty people lingers very strongly. Living in an icy environment keeps your nose void of smells so facing such a thick stench really hit me in the face. The ceiling is covered with black from the burning animal fat and all around the walls were more mummified seal bits. It was cool to see the shiny drips of fat that collected under the pieces of meat that were left to hang and dry. Also cool was the wood boxes full of old cans of cocoa and dog biscuits. Old tools, clothes, and other bits polished off the shelves and storage area. Creepy to be in a hut that people clung to life in for months, and yet awesome!
1950 - 1970 The building I work and live in is one of the originals. The dorms are on the second story and have mostly no windows and padded walls to help absorb sound and light. It's really great until glycol and melting snow starts leaking over your bed from the old pipework and the ceiling collapses. It doesn't help that they made it a point to mention the use of asbestos in the building when this happens. The fun continues when you go to work and are working with machinery that breaks down frequently and in a different place each time. "Bertha" and "Slim" are the machines we run dishes and pots through. The poor characters have had a good run, but may want to retire before we're ready for them to.
1980 - 2000 The technology at McMurdo may be cutting edge in terms of science, but for recreation the machinery goes about as far as the invention of cell phones. The lounges are a kick back to the 90's with wall to wall VHS's and a giant block of a TV. The couches are the big overused Goodwill variety. Faded flower print fabric with a shape that makes it look like it was molded out of chewed gum. If a movie isn't your fancy the station has six option of live television which brings it back to the days before cable. As far as phones are concerned they do exists. All have that mustard yellow sheen with the six foot long spiral cord. It's been a blessing not having texting and cell phones to distract. The closest thing people get here is a beeper, but only if your job requires it. Someone was joking to set the alarm clock on their cellphone during a meeting and falsely answering it to see how many people noticed the impossibility of this.
Along with the technology, the majority of the food comes from this period too. There is a huge warehouse that holds the giant shipments from years and years of buildup. Unless "freshies" are flown in, this is our source for food. The oldest expiration date I've come across so far is 98', but I've only been here a month which leaves plenty of time to find the ketchup from the year I was born.
The thing that brings all the time periods together is Skua. Skua's are birds that scavenge here during summer. Along with eating baby penguins and dead fish, the are also known for dive bombing people crossing from one building to another who are holding food. Can't wait to see this! Point being the Skua I mention is an old shack around the dorm buildings that is a pack rat's dream. Things people don't need, can't fit into anymore, or have just left get put into Skua and they are free game. You want some $200 hiking boots for subzero climates, they are there. You'll probably need some shoe laces because they are hot items and get picked off as soon as a shoe of any sort is put in there. Where else would you have use for these shoes? I don't know either, but when you're done here just return them back to Skua. If I ever come back I'm packing my own underwear in a back pack and scavenging for the rest. My buddy and I noted that this was how the crazy neighbors became so comfortable rummaging through other people's garbage, as I walked out with an armful of great finds.
More soon as I finally have a day off,
Chris
1900 - 1920 There is a hut that stands maybe 1/5 a mile away from McMurdo. It is where Shackleton and Scott set up a shelter that was made for the desert of Australia. Obviously, heating a building made to keep cool became a nightmare and they used it as their supply hut. The hut was eventually used as a shelter due to multiple failed attempts at reaching the South Pole and the isolation of winter. While the majority of the people went crazy and died, some survivors stayed for almost half a year eating seals and burning blubber to stay warm. The hut was eventually closed up and left to be found by people building McMurdo in the 50's. It is now a perfectly preserved building.
When I got to go in and see what it was like, it really tripped me out. The majority of the things in the room have been unmoved and are exactly as they were left. The outside of the building has a pile of burlap with a mummified seal carcass on top. When you step inside, you're met by not only more visual carnage, but the smell. To the right of the door is a small room that houses two sheep and part of an emperor penguin on meat hooks. Directly in front of the entrance is a stack of hay used to feed the horses and sheep brought by the explorers to help sustain them. When you enter the large open space of the hut the smell of burnt fat, hay, and dirty people lingers very strongly. Living in an icy environment keeps your nose void of smells so facing such a thick stench really hit me in the face. The ceiling is covered with black from the burning animal fat and all around the walls were more mummified seal bits. It was cool to see the shiny drips of fat that collected under the pieces of meat that were left to hang and dry. Also cool was the wood boxes full of old cans of cocoa and dog biscuits. Old tools, clothes, and other bits polished off the shelves and storage area. Creepy to be in a hut that people clung to life in for months, and yet awesome!
1950 - 1970 The building I work and live in is one of the originals. The dorms are on the second story and have mostly no windows and padded walls to help absorb sound and light. It's really great until glycol and melting snow starts leaking over your bed from the old pipework and the ceiling collapses. It doesn't help that they made it a point to mention the use of asbestos in the building when this happens. The fun continues when you go to work and are working with machinery that breaks down frequently and in a different place each time. "Bertha" and "Slim" are the machines we run dishes and pots through. The poor characters have had a good run, but may want to retire before we're ready for them to.
1980 - 2000 The technology at McMurdo may be cutting edge in terms of science, but for recreation the machinery goes about as far as the invention of cell phones. The lounges are a kick back to the 90's with wall to wall VHS's and a giant block of a TV. The couches are the big overused Goodwill variety. Faded flower print fabric with a shape that makes it look like it was molded out of chewed gum. If a movie isn't your fancy the station has six option of live television which brings it back to the days before cable. As far as phones are concerned they do exists. All have that mustard yellow sheen with the six foot long spiral cord. It's been a blessing not having texting and cell phones to distract. The closest thing people get here is a beeper, but only if your job requires it. Someone was joking to set the alarm clock on their cellphone during a meeting and falsely answering it to see how many people noticed the impossibility of this.
Along with the technology, the majority of the food comes from this period too. There is a huge warehouse that holds the giant shipments from years and years of buildup. Unless "freshies" are flown in, this is our source for food. The oldest expiration date I've come across so far is 98', but I've only been here a month which leaves plenty of time to find the ketchup from the year I was born.
The thing that brings all the time periods together is Skua. Skua's are birds that scavenge here during summer. Along with eating baby penguins and dead fish, the are also known for dive bombing people crossing from one building to another who are holding food. Can't wait to see this! Point being the Skua I mention is an old shack around the dorm buildings that is a pack rat's dream. Things people don't need, can't fit into anymore, or have just left get put into Skua and they are free game. You want some $200 hiking boots for subzero climates, they are there. You'll probably need some shoe laces because they are hot items and get picked off as soon as a shoe of any sort is put in there. Where else would you have use for these shoes? I don't know either, but when you're done here just return them back to Skua. If I ever come back I'm packing my own underwear in a back pack and scavenging for the rest. My buddy and I noted that this was how the crazy neighbors became so comfortable rummaging through other people's garbage, as I walked out with an armful of great finds.
More soon as I finally have a day off,
Chris
Friday, October 28, 2011
Settling In
Working as a dinning attendant has completely blown my mind. I grew up assuming the lunch ladies at school lived their entire lives in blue smocks, wearing hairnets and black safety shoes. Somehow in my mind it stuck that that's all one could ever be once accepting the role of "Public School Children Feeder." I now know when the people are fed and the dishes washed, it's time to feel human again. It has amazed me how diverse the group I'm working with is. Ex-carnies, phycological evaluators, river guides, massage therapists, even a guy who was tagging squirrels last winter make up our little 37 person family. The galley staff works odd hours from the rest of the station so we end up spending most of our time on and off the clock together. The first time I went out with the crowd was shocking because I didn't recognize almost half the group outside of black Dickie's and over sized blue Polo's. I think it was that lack of hair restraints and flecks of food and dish soap that were throwing me off.
In conclusion, to the lunch ladies who served me throughout public school, you are all beautiful and dynamic people. Thank you for your hard work.
As a galley employee I do get the chance to see every person who works and lives at McMurdo. It's been fun so far trying to learn 1200 people's names and faces. I'm up to about 20 outside of galley staff, but I'm sure if I try.... I still won't do it. I have, however, learned the groups that come in and how they interact. There are GA's (general attendants who help with everything/ snow shoveler), Jano's (janitorial staff), Waisties (garbage sorters), and a huge number of other acronyms and nicknames that I can't remember or just don't get. The majority of the staff are all for keeping things running smoothly. When we first got here our traveling group had stuck together. Now that we have our working families the dynamics have changed, of course, and we catch ourselves saying "I haven't seen you forever, how's it going? I miss you." In reality I haven't seen this person since lunch and have only known them three weeks, but it is still nice to catch up.
Always fun is watching the very eccentric, social people that make up the support staff mingling with the very direct and work oriented scientists and engineers. In a sea of crusty, overall wearing people it is hard to tell the difference. The lack of visual social cues makes it more entertaining. I'd compare it to a reality show pitch where the announcer says something like, "We're putting wild and crazy free spirits with specialized mechanics and engineers on a deserted island. What type of wacky, isolation induced shenanigans will happen next?" I'd watch it.
It is part of federal regulation that the environment here be as untouched as possible. So for that, all of our jobs become a little more difficult and specialized then they would be at home. Every drop of liquid spilt outside has to be called in and completely removed, every piece of garbage has to be sorted into a seemingly infinite number of possibilities, and every attempt at energy conservation is implemented. This adds up to McMurdo recycling 65% of the solid waist we produce as well as everything being shipped off the continent and destroyed back in America. It also leads to limited showers and laundry washing, but as a food handler we are exempt from skipping, and even pushed to shower once a day and not reuse clothing. At first I thought this took the fun out of things, but after cleaning an industrial kitchen drain I'm super happy.
My second job has allowed me to visit with the Mid-Rats. These are people working the midnight shift. Instead of bar tending at night, I have picked up the 6:30 am to 1pm shift on my day off. It is much more normal feeling then it should be to wake up so early to feed people drinks and go into bartender mode. When the sun never sets (the last sunset was last week) there really isn't proof of what time of day it really is. The patrons are very adamant about dimming the lights and making it feel as "divey" as possible. When my morning routine usually include silence and lack of communicating, it's a bit of a challenge to muster the energy to run around in a social frenzy and rock out to rock oldies. If you ever come to Antarctica I suggest if you smoke, quit. The smoking lounge is a shelter with a snow covered couch and frozen floor. It also requires you to go outside in the painfully bright day and freeze your butt off. Just a thought.
Hope you're all doing well. If you have any direct questions for me please don't be afraid to ask.
Till next time,
Chris
In conclusion, to the lunch ladies who served me throughout public school, you are all beautiful and dynamic people. Thank you for your hard work.
As a galley employee I do get the chance to see every person who works and lives at McMurdo. It's been fun so far trying to learn 1200 people's names and faces. I'm up to about 20 outside of galley staff, but I'm sure if I try.... I still won't do it. I have, however, learned the groups that come in and how they interact. There are GA's (general attendants who help with everything/ snow shoveler), Jano's (janitorial staff), Waisties (garbage sorters), and a huge number of other acronyms and nicknames that I can't remember or just don't get. The majority of the staff are all for keeping things running smoothly. When we first got here our traveling group had stuck together. Now that we have our working families the dynamics have changed, of course, and we catch ourselves saying "I haven't seen you forever, how's it going? I miss you." In reality I haven't seen this person since lunch and have only known them three weeks, but it is still nice to catch up.
Always fun is watching the very eccentric, social people that make up the support staff mingling with the very direct and work oriented scientists and engineers. In a sea of crusty, overall wearing people it is hard to tell the difference. The lack of visual social cues makes it more entertaining. I'd compare it to a reality show pitch where the announcer says something like, "We're putting wild and crazy free spirits with specialized mechanics and engineers on a deserted island. What type of wacky, isolation induced shenanigans will happen next?" I'd watch it.
It is part of federal regulation that the environment here be as untouched as possible. So for that, all of our jobs become a little more difficult and specialized then they would be at home. Every drop of liquid spilt outside has to be called in and completely removed, every piece of garbage has to be sorted into a seemingly infinite number of possibilities, and every attempt at energy conservation is implemented. This adds up to McMurdo recycling 65% of the solid waist we produce as well as everything being shipped off the continent and destroyed back in America. It also leads to limited showers and laundry washing, but as a food handler we are exempt from skipping, and even pushed to shower once a day and not reuse clothing. At first I thought this took the fun out of things, but after cleaning an industrial kitchen drain I'm super happy.
My second job has allowed me to visit with the Mid-Rats. These are people working the midnight shift. Instead of bar tending at night, I have picked up the 6:30 am to 1pm shift on my day off. It is much more normal feeling then it should be to wake up so early to feed people drinks and go into bartender mode. When the sun never sets (the last sunset was last week) there really isn't proof of what time of day it really is. The patrons are very adamant about dimming the lights and making it feel as "divey" as possible. When my morning routine usually include silence and lack of communicating, it's a bit of a challenge to muster the energy to run around in a social frenzy and rock out to rock oldies. If you ever come to Antarctica I suggest if you smoke, quit. The smoking lounge is a shelter with a snow covered couch and frozen floor. It also requires you to go outside in the painfully bright day and freeze your butt off. Just a thought.
Hope you're all doing well. If you have any direct questions for me please don't be afraid to ask.
Till next time,
Chris
Saturday, October 22, 2011
... And The Destination
Travel Guide to McMurdo
Arrival: When arriving in McMurdo you may have some immediate questions before landing. For example "How does a giant aircraft land on a peace of ice?" The explanation for this is simple. Very carefully with a bumpy landing and a bit of a fishtail. Don't worry, the flight crew will let you know that the ice shelf sinks four inches every time a plane lands. This should put aside any fears of the visible cracks in the ice giving way and collapsing beneath the wheels. Just in case, they do require the wearing of survival gear throughout the entire four hour flight. Don't worry, the airplane will be cold enough to make this practical and the man wearing the ski mask, or balaclava, is not going to mug you.
Weather: He's wearing it because when you exit the plane the wind that will be blowing at you from the flat expanse of frozen ice shelf will make you second guess any reason for wanting to go outside ever again. The average temperature here ranges from -40 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If arriving in October, expect -20's to 0 to be your average temperature. Of course this does not take into consideration the numbing effects of the wind sheer which is why you will finally be able to sport a ski mask in public transportation and no one will be able to say anything.
Around The City: Once you drop your bags off in the dorm and meet the other three or more you will be sharing a room with, take some time to walk around. Please do this slowly as everything is covered in ice and snow. Also look out for passenger vans, trucks, and cargo movers. They will all be stacked on huge tires that look like they belong on the moon. As you walk around please notice that every building is made of sheet metal on the outside and labeled with a number. Also, please watch your step around the flags. These indicate pipes covered by snow, obscured equipment, and the always exciting ice crevasse that drops thirty feet past the few inches of white dust covering it.
There are plenty of social activities around the station to keep you occupied. They include a basketball court in an old hanger bay, a coffee house, two bars that serve cheap beer and mixed drinks, a library, two gyms, a medical center, post office, chapel, and cafeteria. There is also Hut 10 that is reserved for VIP's like presidents, kings, and other officials visiting. If you are lucky enough that there happens to be no dignitaries renting the space, you can reserve Hut 10 for a private party.
Dinning: If the walk around town has made you hungry, please stop by the galley for some food. The diets of the town people are budgeted for 6,000 calories a day so please go crazy. The use of real butter, heavy cream, and animal fats can be a little off putting for those of you watching your figures. Just know that the harsh climate in Antarctica forces our body to up the burn. So please, take another peace of cannoli cake with filling as the icing and shells crumbled for the crust. It's good for you.
Beyond The Base: The consumption of amazing deserts and hefty meals is especially recommended for long hikes in the surrounding wilderness. You can take a two mile hike to Scott Base which is a collection of green buildings inhabited by 30-40 kiwis. Be sure to bring currency since, just two miles away, the currency, power outlets, and driving changes. You can also do hikes up to Ob Hill which produces 360 views of the town, the ice shelf, and Mt. Erebus. Don't be alarmed at the plume of steam coming from Erebus. It erupted recently enough that there shouldn't be an issue while you're here. Most exciting, however, wouldn't be hiking up, but going under.
On the shelf you can visit the observation tube which is a 30ft long tube that you can climb down and view what lives under the ice. This is not for the faint of heart. The tube uses a cover that blocks out the light from above. You should take off large jackets as there is maybe a three foot diameter and things get pretty tight. Once you climb down past the ice and sit at the bottom, the dark claustrophobic anxiety releases. The view through the glass that surrounds you is of glowing ice from above with little white fish, squid, and worms schooling all around you. The temperature down there is in the thirties and feels warm. The sound is almost dead silent, aside from distant crunching of ice and the very surreal sound of seals calling to each other from under the water. A backward, high pitched whale call with chirping thrown in. Definitely a different world.
I am working in the galley as a Dinning Attendant and will be taking my TIPS training tonight to be okay to work in the bars. Now that work and life are getting into a rhythm, I am looking forward to get to know the "locals" a bit more and see what the options are for further excursions.
Till next time,
Chris
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
It's The Journey...
I am officially here. The wait is over. It took almost a week of travel and training to make it this far, but it's just a small price to pay.
My stay in Christchurch was great! The currency exchange was almost spot on to the US dollar so there was no headache of "How much am I really spending on dinner?" The only thing that really needed getting used to was the reversed street traffic. This did not just mean the cars. The people naturally walked on the other side of a sidewalk making it feel at first that everyone kept running into me. Turns out I was just going against traffic. Another opposite I've been waiting my whole life to see is the reversed direction of water as it goes down a drain, or the Coriolis Effect. To my annoyance the toilets there just go down instead of around because of water conservation. I had to wait till I could fill up my bathroom sink to watch and at that point I realized that even if I saw the water going an opposite way, I couldn't remember for the life of me what direction water drains back home. I guess it's just not one of those things you notice unless you look for it.
The briefing we had for Christchurch included emergency contacts and loads of information pertaining to what to do in the case of an earthquake. At first this seemed a little overkill, but when they mentioned that the city had felt a 5.5 a week earlier it brought it all home. Christchurch had been devastated by a huge earthquake last year. The entire downtown area had been wiped out. When we arrived a few of us went for a walk towards the down town area and the entire city had been fenced off. It was eerie looking at large convention centers and tall modern buildings on the main road for as far as I could see, and yet there was no cars, people, or even noise coming from the center. There were even billboards and posters with "Coming in March!" still up. It was like the whole downtown area had been at a stand still for a year.
Aside from the crumbling city center Christchurch proved to be a lovely place. The town includes a very large botanical garden that goes on for miles. This was a welcomed sight since I won't be seeing greenery for a while. It did feel kind of like time travel, however, to be walking through a spring time setting when I had just left the color changes and rainy days of fall a few days before. Still, the emerging tulips and fresh leaves on the trees matched with the cool crisp air made it a bliss full two days of exploring. I was also very interested to see the amount of businesses coping with the loss of the city by taking over buildings in the neighborhoods. It seemed that every empty gas stationed had been turned into a restaurant and every house a doctor's or contractor's office of one sort or another. Our friendly hotel bartender had passed on the information that even on the most quiet of nights it was still wise to call ahead for a reservation considering the number of bars and restaurants had been cut in half and people still wanted to go out.
The most exciting was not a place, but an event. The All Blacks, New Zealand's rugby team, were playing Australia's Wallabies. To add excitement to the already heated match was New Zealand hosting the current Rugby World Cup. Naturally the locals were in sporting form with everyone of us visitors feeling a sense of duty to wear black on the night of the big game. Either for joining in, or just not wanting to be the one sticking out, the majority of us dawned our blacks and hung out in various bars to watch the game. Like flies, we dropped. The combination of jet lag and a 4:15 am wake up call forced most of us to call it a night before the end. I managed to squeeze the last bits of the game in while I repacked my bag and NZ won by a landslide. Great game.
The forty plus folks I got to travel with have become such a relief to me. The question was asked, "What if you get down there and you don't like anyone?" I assure you now that anyone traveling to Antarctica is worth it. Some very down to earth, entertaining people to be met. I already find myself bonding with the group on the platform that we all have at least one thing in common. As I continue to learn new things about them and hear their stories, I have to say this is one awesome group of people to be stuck on an ice shelf with, and that makes me happy.
More from and about the ice later.
Till next time,
Chris
My stay in Christchurch was great! The currency exchange was almost spot on to the US dollar so there was no headache of "How much am I really spending on dinner?" The only thing that really needed getting used to was the reversed street traffic. This did not just mean the cars. The people naturally walked on the other side of a sidewalk making it feel at first that everyone kept running into me. Turns out I was just going against traffic. Another opposite I've been waiting my whole life to see is the reversed direction of water as it goes down a drain, or the Coriolis Effect. To my annoyance the toilets there just go down instead of around because of water conservation. I had to wait till I could fill up my bathroom sink to watch and at that point I realized that even if I saw the water going an opposite way, I couldn't remember for the life of me what direction water drains back home. I guess it's just not one of those things you notice unless you look for it.
The briefing we had for Christchurch included emergency contacts and loads of information pertaining to what to do in the case of an earthquake. At first this seemed a little overkill, but when they mentioned that the city had felt a 5.5 a week earlier it brought it all home. Christchurch had been devastated by a huge earthquake last year. The entire downtown area had been wiped out. When we arrived a few of us went for a walk towards the down town area and the entire city had been fenced off. It was eerie looking at large convention centers and tall modern buildings on the main road for as far as I could see, and yet there was no cars, people, or even noise coming from the center. There were even billboards and posters with "Coming in March!" still up. It was like the whole downtown area had been at a stand still for a year.
Aside from the crumbling city center Christchurch proved to be a lovely place. The town includes a very large botanical garden that goes on for miles. This was a welcomed sight since I won't be seeing greenery for a while. It did feel kind of like time travel, however, to be walking through a spring time setting when I had just left the color changes and rainy days of fall a few days before. Still, the emerging tulips and fresh leaves on the trees matched with the cool crisp air made it a bliss full two days of exploring. I was also very interested to see the amount of businesses coping with the loss of the city by taking over buildings in the neighborhoods. It seemed that every empty gas stationed had been turned into a restaurant and every house a doctor's or contractor's office of one sort or another. Our friendly hotel bartender had passed on the information that even on the most quiet of nights it was still wise to call ahead for a reservation considering the number of bars and restaurants had been cut in half and people still wanted to go out.
The most exciting was not a place, but an event. The All Blacks, New Zealand's rugby team, were playing Australia's Wallabies. To add excitement to the already heated match was New Zealand hosting the current Rugby World Cup. Naturally the locals were in sporting form with everyone of us visitors feeling a sense of duty to wear black on the night of the big game. Either for joining in, or just not wanting to be the one sticking out, the majority of us dawned our blacks and hung out in various bars to watch the game. Like flies, we dropped. The combination of jet lag and a 4:15 am wake up call forced most of us to call it a night before the end. I managed to squeeze the last bits of the game in while I repacked my bag and NZ won by a landslide. Great game.
The forty plus folks I got to travel with have become such a relief to me. The question was asked, "What if you get down there and you don't like anyone?" I assure you now that anyone traveling to Antarctica is worth it. Some very down to earth, entertaining people to be met. I already find myself bonding with the group on the platform that we all have at least one thing in common. As I continue to learn new things about them and hear their stories, I have to say this is one awesome group of people to be stuck on an ice shelf with, and that makes me happy.
More from and about the ice later.
Till next time,
Chris
Saturday, October 15, 2011
How To Snag A Job On The Ice
Knowing that I am on my way down to Antarctica there are many questions of "How did you get that job in the first place?" In a much abridged description I will attempt to tell you everything required as well as the things people don't tell you about.
Being in the Loop It is important to know someone who's done this before. I suggest random strangers in hostels and bars that share stories of what a crazy experience it was, which of course will lead you to want to join in the fun. If crazy doesn't excite you then searching the web for stories of how beautiful the scenery was and the once in a life time experience to practice science might peak your interest.
Having Backup Having people that want to support crazy shenanigans is just as important as the drive to do them. Some examples of these would be boss's willing to write letters of recommendation just because it would be awesome, recruiters giving you a helping hand to represent your city, or family members who have given up trying to talk you out of such ventures either from acceptance or just fatigue.
Dumb Luck Sometimes you hit a home run with an interview and take the job with an iron fist. Other times you're on the wait list and told you'll be called once someone has to drop out. This sucks until you're called the next day because someone does something and drops out. At this point you take a breath and whisper an "amen" as you scramble to get tested for every health related thing under the sun to get PQ'd.
Patients Once you've established you have the job and are free of tooth decay, STD's, heart murmurs, and a list of other things you hope you haven't been exposed to because you've never heard of them and don't know what they do, you start the waiting game for departure. After life is shut down and the final days of work come to a close the ticket comes and the adventure begins.
At this point I am sitting in New Zealand in Christchurch catching up on emails. So far we have gone through safety training, travel briefings, and will be issued clothing tomorrow morning. It has been straight forward in terms of meeting the forty others flying down with me. All just crazy enough to work down there, and yet all very cool people.
I've even gotten a shout out by presidentcial hopeful Newt Gingrich in the LAX airport. We met Peter hanging out in the airport and when he got up to go to Starbucks he came back with a guy in tow and said "Hey guys this is Newt Gingrich..." Peter then b-lined for the bathroom and left poor Newt staring at three travelers sitting on the floor. He was a cool guy. I shook his hand from my seated possition and he thanked us for our work with the NSF. As he walked away we looked him up online to make sure we could remember which politician he was.
I'll let you all know how NZ turns out when I hit Antarctica.
Till later,
Chris
Being in the Loop It is important to know someone who's done this before. I suggest random strangers in hostels and bars that share stories of what a crazy experience it was, which of course will lead you to want to join in the fun. If crazy doesn't excite you then searching the web for stories of how beautiful the scenery was and the once in a life time experience to practice science might peak your interest.
Having Backup Having people that want to support crazy shenanigans is just as important as the drive to do them. Some examples of these would be boss's willing to write letters of recommendation just because it would be awesome, recruiters giving you a helping hand to represent your city, or family members who have given up trying to talk you out of such ventures either from acceptance or just fatigue.
Dumb Luck Sometimes you hit a home run with an interview and take the job with an iron fist. Other times you're on the wait list and told you'll be called once someone has to drop out. This sucks until you're called the next day because someone does something and drops out. At this point you take a breath and whisper an "amen" as you scramble to get tested for every health related thing under the sun to get PQ'd.
Patients Once you've established you have the job and are free of tooth decay, STD's, heart murmurs, and a list of other things you hope you haven't been exposed to because you've never heard of them and don't know what they do, you start the waiting game for departure. After life is shut down and the final days of work come to a close the ticket comes and the adventure begins.
At this point I am sitting in New Zealand in Christchurch catching up on emails. So far we have gone through safety training, travel briefings, and will be issued clothing tomorrow morning. It has been straight forward in terms of meeting the forty others flying down with me. All just crazy enough to work down there, and yet all very cool people.
I've even gotten a shout out by presidentcial hopeful Newt Gingrich in the LAX airport. We met Peter hanging out in the airport and when he got up to go to Starbucks he came back with a guy in tow and said "Hey guys this is Newt Gingrich..." Peter then b-lined for the bathroom and left poor Newt staring at three travelers sitting on the floor. He was a cool guy. I shook his hand from my seated possition and he thanked us for our work with the NSF. As he walked away we looked him up online to make sure we could remember which politician he was.
I'll let you all know how NZ turns out when I hit Antarctica.
Till later,
Chris
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