... And The Destination

Travel Guide to McMurdo

Arrival: When arriving in McMurdo you may have some immediate questions before landing. For example "How does a giant aircraft land on a peace of ice?" The explanation for this is simple. Very carefully with a bumpy landing and a bit of a fishtail. Don't worry, the flight crew will let you know that the ice shelf sinks four inches every time a plane lands. This should put aside any fears of the visible cracks in the ice giving way and collapsing beneath the wheels. Just in case, they do require the wearing of survival gear throughout the entire four hour flight. Don't worry, the airplane will be cold enough to make this practical and the man wearing the ski mask, or balaclava, is not going to mug you.

Weather: He's wearing it because when you exit the plane the wind that will be blowing at you from the flat expanse of frozen ice shelf will make you second guess any reason for wanting to go outside ever again. The average temperature here ranges from -40 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If arriving in October, expect -20's to 0 to be your average temperature. Of course this does not take into consideration the numbing effects of the wind sheer which is why you will finally be able to sport a ski mask in public transportation and no one will be able to say anything.

Around The City: Once you drop your bags off in the dorm and meet the other three or more you will be sharing a room with, take some time to walk around. Please do this slowly as everything is covered in ice and snow. Also look out for passenger vans, trucks, and cargo movers. They will all be stacked on huge tires that look like they belong on the moon. As you walk around please notice that every building is made of sheet metal on the outside and labeled with a number. Also, please watch your step around the flags. These indicate pipes covered by snow, obscured equipment, and the always exciting ice crevasse that drops thirty feet past the few inches of white dust covering it.

               There are plenty of social activities around the station to keep you occupied. They include a basketball court in an old hanger bay, a coffee house, two bars that serve cheap beer and mixed drinks, a library, two gyms, a medical center, post office, chapel, and cafeteria. There is also Hut 10 that is reserved for VIP's like presidents, kings, and other officials visiting. If you are lucky enough that there happens to be no dignitaries renting the space, you can reserve Hut 10 for a private party.

Dinning: If the walk around town has made you hungry, please stop by the galley for some food. The diets of the town people are budgeted for 6,000 calories a day so please go crazy. The use of real butter, heavy cream, and animal fats can be a little off putting for those of you watching your figures. Just know that the harsh climate in Antarctica forces our body to up the burn. So please, take another peace of cannoli cake with filling as the icing and shells crumbled for the crust. It's good for you.

Beyond The Base: The consumption of amazing deserts and hefty meals is especially recommended for long hikes in the surrounding wilderness. You can take a two mile hike to Scott Base which is a collection of green buildings inhabited by 30-40 kiwis. Be sure to bring currency since, just two miles away, the currency, power outlets, and driving changes. You can also do hikes up to Ob Hill which produces 360 views of the town, the ice shelf, and Mt. Erebus. Don't be alarmed at the plume of steam coming from Erebus. It erupted recently enough that there shouldn't be an issue while you're here. Most exciting, however, wouldn't be hiking up, but going under.

                On the shelf you can visit the observation tube which is a 30ft long tube that you can climb down and view what lives under the ice. This is not for the faint of heart. The tube uses a cover that blocks out the light from above. You should take off large jackets as there is maybe a three foot diameter and things get pretty tight. Once you climb down past the ice and sit at the bottom, the dark claustrophobic anxiety releases. The view through the glass that surrounds you is of glowing ice from above with little white fish, squid, and worms schooling all around you. The temperature down there is in the thirties and feels warm. The sound is almost dead silent, aside from distant crunching of ice and the very surreal sound of seals calling to each other from under the water. A backward, high pitched whale call with chirping thrown in. Definitely a different world.

           I am working in the galley as a Dinning Attendant and will be taking my TIPS training tonight to be okay to work in the bars. Now that work and life are getting into a rhythm, I am looking forward to get to know the "locals" a bit more and see what the options are for further excursions.

Till next time,

Chris